I have pretty much given up updating my kitten pages, as the kittens are all promised to homes before I have time to do it. I only have one or two litters a year as I’m not doing this as a business, and the cats live as pets first, not breeding machines. You are welcome to contact me to ask about kittens at any time though. If I haven’t any I will try to pass you on to a reputable home breeder who does have a litter, or put you on my (extremely long) list to contact when I do have kittens.

If you have come here for information about Tonkinese because you have seen an advert and you're not sure it is genuine, please visit this independent information page: tonkinese.org.uk

I only check emails once a day during the week, and not at all (if I can help it) at weekends. If you haven’t heard from me within 3 days please either try again (in case I replied but your email address bounced) or give me a call. See the contact page for details. If you would like to meet my cats (and me) I am happy for visitors to come and see us whether or not I have kittens available. You are also welcome to meet my stud boys and see where they live.

DURING CORONAVIRUS COVID-19: Unfortunately all breeders have had to suspend home visits for the moment. However it is possible to set up a video visit very easily (you will need Chrome, Firefox or Safari browsers, unfortunately Internet Explorer or Edge won't work), just email to ask for a time and I will set it up. Kittens are still available — many breeders have kittens who were conceived before coronavirus started to affect our lives. It is possible to visit litters by video link and doing it is as easy as typing a URL into a browser window (see meet.jit.si). If your breeder won't engage with video links, taking pictures or phone videos etc., DO NOT BUY FROM THEM. They may have a reason for not wishing you to see their kittens. Please look at
The right breeder page for more information.

You can safely pick up a kitten from a breeder or they can bring it to you. Simply follow basic guidance about touching and maintaining a distance. The kitten can be transferred in a disinfected basket (if it's your basket, make sure you have disinfected it to protect the breeder). Check the kitten before accepting it as you would under normal circumstances and do not take it if a) the breeder won't let you check it before leaving or b) it looks ill. The breeder will have been taking care like everyone else, so the chances of getting an infection from touching your new kitten are very low, all you have to do is wash or disinfect your hands after touching it for the first 12 hours. You cannot get coronavirus from the cat itself, only from another person. If the kitten looks ill it may have cat flu. If the breeder says they could not vaccinate the kitten because of coronavirus rules about vet visits, this is
not true. The RCVS has ruled that primary vaccination courses are considered essential.

When you get your new kitten home: if the breeder is a carrier of coronavirus (very unlikely, but assume they are to be safe) virus can live on a cat's coat for around 12 hours, so every time you handle the kitten for the first 12 hours wash your hands afterwards. Don't kiss it or put it near your face for the first 12 hours. You can wipe down the kitten with a pet-safe disinfectant such as F-10 if you are worried; do not use normal household disinfectants as they could poison or harm the cat. Don't leave the kitten alone or untouched for 12 hours as this will cause it extreme distress. If you buy two kittens together isolating them for a short time is more possible, particularly if you bring them home in the evening and can leave them quietly overnight, but the kittens will still need to be loved and cared for as normal. They don't know that we're afraid of COVID-19.

You may have heard of coronavirus in cats: this has been around for over 40 years and is a completely different virus. It does not affect humans at all and in cats causes mild diarrhoea for about 12-24 hours. You can web-search for more information under Feline Coronavirus or FCoV. Please note FCoV is NOT FIP — FIP is a reaction to FCoV suffered by a very small minority of cats. There is a fair bit of misinformation about FCoV, so if you would like more up-to-date detail please contact the
Oxford Cat Clinic, who are more clued up about it than most vets.

If you want to know more about breeders and about buying kittens, please read the Extracts from the GCCF GENERAL CODE OF ETHICS FOR BREEDERS AND OWNERS (extract below) or guidance for healthy breeding, and their code of ethics for members of the BREEDER SCHEME. Rameses is a GCCF registered prefix. I have enormous respect for the GCCF and its work in promoting responsible breeding, which is why I register my kittens with them. However I am not a member of the GCCF Breeder Scheme because breeders are not visited or checked in any way, so this provides no guarantees and sadly some very poor breeders are using the scheme to hoodwink people into thinking they are verified 'good' breeders. From the GCCF web page about the scheme: 'Breeder's premises are currently not inspected as part of the scheme. You are advised to make sure you are happy with the environment and way in which the kittens are raised before purchasing. The GCCF cannot take responsibility for the health of any kitten purchased using the Breeder Scheme facility.' I look forward to joining the scheme when it is a genuine mark of good practice and responsible breeding. I aim to exceed the standards set in the code of ethics at all times. But remember, I could just be saying that! Websites cannot be trusted, only the evidence of your own eyes and experience.

Kittens are born and grow up entirely in my home. Their mothers also live in the house with me all the year round and have access to a large cat-proofed garden with enclosed runs when they are on heat. Some breeders have the adult girls outside in runs until they kitten, then they come indoors. This is not the case here. My cats are my pets first and foremost, and they are part of my life and family and sleep on the bed. The kittens and mothers are never put outside in pens, although if the weather is good I give them access through a window or cat flap to an outdoor run at the side of the house. The adults have access to my garden which is secured against escape, where they can run around and play in a large open-air space. Kittens are available to go to their new homes from 13 weeks of age; they are vaccinated against 'cat flu' and feline enteritis, registered with the GCCF, and are insured free for their first few weeks in their new home. Because my queens are insured under a breeding policy, all kittens are fully covered without any exclusions of any sort if that insurance is continued by the new owner.

My kittens are reared as naturally as possible: they are fed on high quality foods that are free from artificial colouring, preservative, flavour enhancers and other unnecessary chemicals. This includes raw feeding. A good natural diet is the best way to avoid many health problems. All their veterinary needs are met by my excellent vets in Oxford,
Iffley vets and The Oxford Cat Clinic.


Rameses kittens are only sold as pets, and on the STRICT understanding that they are neutered by 6 months of age. However I I will consider approaches from owners wishing to become breeders with proper support, but you must consider all the ramifications of that decision before I will let you have a kitten on the active register. If you would be interested in breeding please ask me about attending a 'breeder day' where you will be given all the information you need and have the chance to ask questions. All first-time breeders must be mentored either by myself or by another experienced and reputable breeder.


For Tonkinese, Burmese and Old-style Siamese kittens currently available in the UK, you can call the following clubs:
UK Burmese Cat Club Kitten List 0181 300 6326,
UK Tonkinese Breed Club Kitten List see
www.tonkinese.info
UK Old-style Siamese Club Kitten List 0121 378 4205.

EXPORT
I do NOT export to the USA because of declawing and the length of the journey for a young cat.

I sometimes export kittens to Europe (only), but they may not travel unaccompanied or in a cargo hold. New owners must ensure that the airline they propose to use will allow the kittens to travel in the passenger cabin with them (or with the me if I am bringing them to their new home). Usually, I prefer to wait until the kittens are at least 15 weeks old before subjecting them to a lengthy journey like this, but countries that require rabies vaccination need a longer wait because of the age at which the vaccination and booster can be given. Travel costs must be covered by the buyer. There are incidental costs in addition to the usual sale price which cover items such as: GCCF certified pedigree and transfer of ownership; an approved carrying container; and the fee for a veterinary health certificate required by the Ministry of Agriculture. Kittens exported to some EC countries do not require Rabies vaccinations if they are under 6 months of age, but this rule seems to vary quite frequently. It is up to the buyer to check all the import regulations and cost implications before approaching a UK breeder for a kitten.

EXTRACT FROM THE GCCF GENERAL CODE OF ETHICS FOR BREEDERS AND OWNERS
Registered owners of all GCCF registered cats/kittens accept the jurisdiction of the Governing Council of the Cat Fancy and undertake to abide by this general code of ethics.

  • Cats that are bought as pets, not for breeding, should be neutered or spayed at the age recommended by your veterinary surgeon. If cats are registered on the Non-Active register, this means that under no circumstances should the cats be bred from; no progeny from these cats will be registered by the GCCF.
  • Breeders agree only to sell cats where there is a reasonable expectation of a happy and healthy life. An offer should be made at the time of sale to help with the rehoming if at any time circumstances require the cat to be found a new home.
  • Owners should not sell any cat to commercial cat wholesalers, retail pet dealers or directly or indirectly allow cats to be given as a prize or donation in a competition of any kind.
  • Breeders must not knowingly misrepresent the characteristics of the breed nor falsely advertise cats nor mislead any person regarding the health or quality of the cat and must draw the attention of purchasers to the implications of the Non-Active register when selling pet kittens
  • Breeders selling a kitten on the Active register should offer advice and support to the new owners. Owners should not breed cats in a way that is deleterious to the health of the cat or the breed.
  • Breeders/owners must ensure that all relevant Governing Council of the Cat Fancy documents are provided to the new owner when selling or transferring a cat in accordance with Rule 10, including a copy of this code.
  • When a cat or kitten is advertised or sold as a pedigree cat or kitten the breeder shall, at the time of sale, provide the purchaser with a properly completed pedigree signed by the breeder, carrying 3 generations at least, showing all the the breed numbers and registration numbers, also the breeder's name and address.
  • If, at the time of sale, the cat or kitten is registered, the seller shall provide the purchaser with a transfer form, duly completed and signed by the seller, unless it is jointly agreed in writing by both parties at the time of sale not to do so.