Please note:

I do not accept queens under the age of 12 months.
Queens must be on the active register with the GCCF or, if from another registry, have the written permission of the original breeder for her to be bred from.
I reserve the right to refuse to allow a queen to mate when I see her if I feel that she is significantly out of condition, too small or immature.

Before coming to stud, please:

  • Trim your queen’s claws carefully;
  • Arrange with your vet to have her blood-tested for FIV and FeLV and PCR swabbed (see below, Testing);
  • Make sure her vaccinations are up to date. You cannot vaccinate during pregnancy. If necessary boost her early;
  • Worm her BUT ONLY WITH AN ORAL WORMER: it is always best not to do anything with drugs during a pregnancy, no matter what the vets or the packets say. Why take an unnecessary risk?
  • DO NOT on any account apply a spot-on flea treatment or wormer within the 5 days before coming to stud. These chemicals are toxic and are applied to the back of the neck so that the cat cannot lick it. However, this is right where the stud holds the girl when mating. Apart from making the boy feel ill, he won't like mating if holding her makes him foam at the mouth. If your cats are checked regularly for fleas you shouldn't need to de-flea during pregnancy.
  • CHECK the due dates! If there is any chance you will not be on hand for the few days before and after your girl’s due dates and/or may not be able to look after the litter of kittens then you must not mate her. Sounds obvious, but people do get it wrong because they forgot to check!


Since Herpes or Calici could spell disaster for a breeding community just as much as FeLV or FIV, Mycoplasma and Chlamydia can involve the huge cost of treating a whole household of cats, I require a full set of tests before accepting a cat to stud: FeLV, FIV snap test, and PCR swab tests for Herpes, Calici, Mycoplasma and Chlamydia, since cats vaccinated against all of these things can still carry the illness without showing symptoms. PCR swabs take about a week to get results, so it’s advisable to do all your tests a week or two (but preferably not more than 2 weeks) in advance of the time you might wish to come to stud as long as the queen or your other cats do not go out to a show or other stud in the intervening time, as they may pick up illness and pass it to the queen. I know that queens are not always prepared to keep to a timetable, so please do consult me if you want to bring your girl to stud or if you’re about to have tests done. The cost of these additional tests is around £85-100 in addition to the usual FeLV/FIV, but remember that this protects your cat as well as mine.

If your vet says it will cost £300 or £400 to run the PCR for 4 diseases please tell them that it does not or change vet as their charging model is clearly exploitative. My vet charges the lab fees plus their sampling fee (the cost of a normal appointment). There is no postage charge as the labs supply pre-paid envelopes to the vet. The following prices were recorded in 2021:
5-way panel (including Mycoplasma and Bordatella) Axiom labs costs
£90+VAT and sampling fee from your vet
3-way panel (Herpes, Calici and Chlamydia) University of Glasgow costs £74+VAT and sampling fee from your vet
3-way panel (Herpes, Calici and Chlamydia) Langford/Bristol costs £110+VAT and sampling fee from your vet
I can send you a sample result certificate if that would be useful in convincing your vet not to over-charge you.

The extra tests I require mean that ANY visiting queen has had the same tests, and that gives you the best possible protection for your cat because you know my stud has NOT been in contact with a cat carrying cat flu before your cat came to him. Please don't ask me to make an exception for your cat: cat flu can kill kittens and wipe out breeding lines if the cats become carriers because they all have to be neutered; I will not put my cats, or anyone else's, at risk.

You will need to bring the following items with your queen:

  • Some of her regular litter (perhaps slightly used for the stud to sniff). I have newspaper pellets and Catsan, but if your cat is used to something else that will help her settle;
  • Some of her favourite food, and a note of anything she particularly likes or dislikes;
  • Some bedding that smells of home, and that is easily washable (it may go home stinking of stud cat);
  • A copy of her pedigree that I can keep;
  • Her Vaccination card;
  • Her registration certificate. Please make sure that if you did not breed her this indicates that she is on the active register. If her certificate says that kittens from her may not be registered, then I cannot have her in to stud. If you have the permission of her breeder to breed then they will need to change her to the Active Register;
  • The test certificate or letter from your vet giving the results of her blood tests and the PCR panel certificate (which can be forwarded in advance if you received it by email).

Stud fee:

This is currently £400. If the mating is unsuccessful the queen may return for a free second mating, but if she has been out to a show or there has been a long hiatus she must be re-tested.
If there is no successful outcome the stud fee will be refunded.

Stud contract:

1. Kittens should be registered preferably with GCCF, but otherwise with another reputable registration body (not a club). Remember that only the GCCF has active and non-active registers.

2. Kittens sold as pets, and not for breeding, must be neutered within 6 months, and placed on the ‘inactive’ register. I would be grateful if you could ensure your owners follow this rule, as otherwise they may end up being bred from by someone unscrupulous or a 'back-street' breeder. You only have to look at kitten-sales websites to see this happening to kittens who were sold as pets, with people who have all sorts of spurious excuses for not registering.

3. If you wish to keep female kittens for breeding yourself that is usually fine (but please ask me in advance). If you wish to sell a female for breeding I need to give my consent as I have to ensure my lines are not over-used and that my lines do not end up in the wrong hands. I expect that you will make every effort to ensure a breeder, if they are new to the Tonkinese or to breeding, is properly supported and you have made sure they know exactly what they’re getting into. I do not allow novice breeders to sell kittens for breeding. I offer information days for new breeders and I am happy to host one for anyone who is interested in starting breeding and to offer mentoring or support if you feel you cannot do this.

4. I do not allow selling or keeping a male kitten for stud without very specific permission. This is because keeping a boy is very complicated, it can lead to problems with neighbours because they are very noisy, and many people don’t really have any idea of how difficult and time-consuming keeping a stud can be, particularly with the boy spraying urine everywhere and making a terrible stink. Stud owners also need considerable breeding experience in order to advise other breeders who bring their girls to them. Looking after someone else’s queen is a big responsibility and ensuring they are not hurt or that they do not attack the boy after mating is difficult. I am happy to consider it, but only if I can talk to the prospective owner first and make sure they know exactly what is involved.